stella jean interview

She collaborated with the Topchu Art Group, an association of women artisans, to create a capsule collection of five pieces with Kyrgyz embroidery at the forefront. I hope that these wearable works of art will convey the profound message of multiculturalism with which they are imbued. Drink some coffee, put on some gangsta rap, and handle it. Others are more subtle, like a fabric incorporating imagery of Haitian gingerbread houses or a patchwork (a Desigual signature) inspired by Spain. Agenda-setting intelligence, analysis and advice for the global fashion community. All you need to know about everything that matters. For the first time in history, the traditional embroideries of the Kalash women were presented to an international audience. The beginning of my work coincides with an extraordinary work I did on myself when I decided to undress myself of every superstructure and tell who I was. Everything happens for a reason and in a precise moment cause it is the right time. Jean recognises fashion as a tool that can offer fair and equitable opportunities for people in low-income countries. This will enable the world to partake in the empowering path that these women will follow. After some long discussions, some great results, we will show what happened in these two years. LONDON, United Kingdom For designer Stella Jean, enough is enough. The latest fashion news, beauty coverage, celebrity style, fashion week updates, culture reviews, and videos on Vogue.com. Karishma began teaching me her language. Jeans work became popular after Giorgio Armani invited her to a fashion show in 2014. STELLA JEAN: I arrived at the project thanks to my mentor Simonetta Gianfelici who guided me and made me know to this part of the world, which is still partly unknown to me. Nichelle Cole: In reference to the limelight shining down on you right now, what has that been like? Or are you considering creating a bambini line for Stella Jean? A respected writer, stylist and influencer, she has been published in fashion magazines around the world. Ten Things You Need to Know Today: 2 August 2022, UEFA WOMEN'S CHAMPIONSHIP 31 JUL 2022 ENGLAND VS GERMANY VIEWING OPTION. Im not a person who gives up easily, so I took it as a challenge and thats something thats very stimulating to me., My eyes are always looking towards the future and the possible historical and cultural combinations for a cross-creativity that does not put limits on social and textile combinations., I still have much work to do and now it is very important to think about consolidating my structure. But it was only when the 41-year-old encountered it in Italy's mainly white fashion industry that she realised just how unwilling people were to talk about it. So finally having something that people can afford and buy, I think its part of the inclusive concept also.. The former model, a protege of Giorgio Armani and the only Black person ever to be appointed to Italy's influential Fashion Council, will not show her latest collection at Milan Fashion Week later this month in a protest over racism. Rather, fashion is about showcasing the contributions and creativity of marginalized Black, Indigenous, and People of Color (BIPOC) based on ecological practices. To revist this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. The collection will include home accessories, fabrics, accessories and table linen. These includes the Kalash people, located in one of the most remote areas of the world: an isolated valley at an altitude of 3,000 metres in the Chitral region, to the northeast of Pakistan, next to the Afghan border. This is a project born out of resistance - a resistance to the temporary but historical closure of our countries. "[This is a] wound that we have ignored for far too long If you don't understand that awareness is the first step in solving the problem, this wound will never heal.". For more information read our Terms & Conditions. The curators selected a look from my own first SS 2014 menswear collection which also includes a trench coat in striped canvas fabric that is hand woven made by female artisans from Burkina Faso as part of the UN Ethical Fashion project with ITC (International Trade Centre). Example: myname@email.com, Click to get the latest news on your device. The self-taught designer, whose clothes have been worn by the likes of Beyonc, In order to effect change, fashion leaders and executives must have an open discussion about what more can be done to boost diversity within their organisations, Jean said. It was touching to feel astonished by such a great art and skill. Though she may be Italian by nationality, her Haitian roots by way of her mother, are stronger than any trace of European genetics built into her cells. She was given the opportunity to showcase her designs in the Armani/Teatro space during Milano Moda Donna for Fashion Week Spring Summer 2014. As such, a major principle of Stellas company is sustainability.. Interview with ethical fashion pioneer designer Stella Jean on being chosen for the Victoria and Albert exhibition in London and her new interior design collection shown during Salone de Mobile. They are so deeply an essential part of the creative side of my work that I could never choose., I dont think there is a wrong way to wear prints. 2021 The Business of Fashion. What was the final click to go from model to fashion designer? It all adds insult to injury. It is [a sentiment that stands for] a substantial part of my DNA, as I think it does for Michael. STELLA JEAN: I can not explain well why, it has just happened and I have been selected to exhibit one of my looks on the occasion of The Glamour of Italian Fashion exhibition and thats really exciting for me. So she created an event to build relationships between Italian fashion companies and African fashion designers and artisans. Through a collaboration with the Food and Agricultural Organization of the United Nations (FAO) and a partnership with Mountain Partnership Products, Stella gave women in Central Asia a voice, which they never imagined having. Jean said there had been years of silence and denial around questions of race in Italy. Being part of such an ambitious and prestigious project is one in a million occasion, Im so excited and honored! I have many ideas, but I cant reveal anything. My creations have to tell something about me and I think I have just been able to turn my familiar background with two cultures into a strength and so my personal assets have been understood and appreciatedthats amazing! The URL has been copied to your clipboard, Fashion designer Stella Jean wears a face mask to stop the spread of COVID-19 as she holds fabrics during an interview with the Associated Press, in Rome, on Wednesday, February 24, 2020. Explain why or why not? Nichelle Cole: Many designers are getting more and more involved in using their celebrity and long-standing fashion clout as a method to bring about change in impoverished lands or awareness about environmental issues but youve been sourcing fabrics with Burkina Faso for your collection almost from the beginning. It isnt simply acknowledging you as a designer, it is documenting you, historically, as someone who is changing and contributing to the future of Italian fashion. In an interview with Vogue, she stated, When I saw all that beauty, the richness of the colors, the symbology, the history behind this culture, I was blown awayThese women are custodians of a naturally circular economy, totally equitable and with the lowest environmental impact.. Jean, meanwhile, draws on her own Italian-Haitian heritage in her mission to bring the essence of different cultures together, combining the lightness of Italian tailoring with the bright graphic motifs and meticulous craftsmanship of African, Asian and Caribbean communities. Prints are part of my collections and theyre like children to me. Nichelle Cole: Do you have any new charity projects or brand projects you can share with our readers? All Rights Reserved. ________________________________________________, featuring n. showing an interesting or important part, quality or ability, runway n. an area where models walk and show new styles of clothing. In Italy too, there have been signs of progress, said Jean. Ill be back, and Ill be in good company. In September, they will host a Black carpet in Milan. What I wanted to propose, in particular, is the original style of my mothers house in Rome, a mix between the Italian craftsmanship tradition and the spirit of the Caribbean vibrant colors, complemented by her French touch. Such patterns are symbols of prosperity and good luck but more than the ancient meaning behind these beautiful embroideries, Stella prides herself on paying tribute to Central Asian fashion rather than the conventional trench coat and heeled-boots look of the fall season. Vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. In the capsule, I reflected a great deal on my personal mtissage, she says. "In fashion we have to start amplifying the voices of women and men of all colours. Multiculturalism is invalid if, in the longshot, vulnerable BIPOC communities are still being harmed. We have been roommates and have become friends. About 9% of Italy's 60 million registered residents are foreigners but of these, less than half a million come from sub-Saharan Africa. My only additional personal advice is to pin a fresh flower in your hair while wearing it. As I am the result of a mix of different cultures and races that could appear completely opposed, but Iwantto promote a sophisticated and alternative multiculturalism through fashion. This is not directly germane to the topic at handwe are meeting to discuss her collaboration with Desigual, which is available to shop todaybut it does underscore Jeans appreciation of culture and craft, which appears in all facets of her work. "An entire generation of new Italians have lived for too long in a condition of total invisibility." Italy is whiter than most other European countries and there has been relatively little debate over the country's colonial past, racism or integration. Valerie Steele is the director of The Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology, in New York City. "The beauty of fashion is it has no borders," Jean said. Jean also wants the world fashion system to value sustainable production methods. (LogOut/ Often we read some comments on our social media where people say, I have to work on my life to buy one of these pieces, she says. Revealing its essence in advance would mean undermining a huge amount of teamwork. Do you think some people are excluded from certain industries of work because of their race or ethnicity? The companys slogan, Multiculturalism Applied to Ethical Fashion, perfectly embodies everything Stella stands for. When she did so, she found that "broaching the subject of racism in Italy is to this day still an unconfessable taboo". The sweaters we designed are a demonstration of how multiculturalism applied to fashion and art can become a practical example of open dialogue and intimate, everyday confrontation. The model turned fashion designer is carving her own path in the Italian fashion industry and if you dont think shes unstoppable now, you will have no qualms about it when you hear headlines of her being The first black woman to or The first woman of Haitian heritage to. Stella Jean, the Haitian-Italian designer who has just announced a boycott of Milan Fashion Week, says she has suffered racism all her life. Would you ever consider doing a collaboration with other brands like H&M or Adidas? By signing up you agree to our User Agreement and Privacy Policy & Cookie Statement. Start your free trial, Why Penelope Cruz is an expert in Chanel, both on and off-screen, The energising allure of Tabayer jewellery. Learn how your comment data is processed. All rights reserved. What led you to the International Trade Centres Ethical Fashion Initiative project? She released her most recent collection in July 2021 for the resort 2022 season, and so this Desigual collaboration is an exciting return for fans of her bright garments. How did this come about? Absolutely stunning work. I will let the audience find out for themselves! Blending traditions that are so distant. For sure starting as a model allowed me to commit what I would call sleight of hand I was able to see and understand how designers approached and lived fashion. Armen Kassabian adapted it for Learning English. What matters is opting for a style made by curiosity, experimentation, audacity, and a pinch of irony always marked by a personal, unique, and visible touch., We shouldnt assume that a plain color serves to mitigate the impression of a total look ofprints. During my last visit to Pakistan, I met Karishma Ali, a 22-year-old warrior woman whose passion is football. Soon after she realized that her calling was to create beautiful clothes rather than wearing them. Telling a true story, totally authentic, for the first time, has been my strength. Eventually I made some changes and found my own style, which allowed me to express myself as a designer. Jeans favorite piece in the collection is a strapless dress made of five ruffles, rendered in a purple, red, yellow, and blue batik. All rights reserved. Stella Jean is a Haitian-Italian clothes designer who is trying to change the Italian fashion industry by working with African designers. Can we expect more from you in this area? Stella Jeans career began on the runway when she dropped out of the Sapienza University of Rome to model for Egon von Furstenberg. I want to create new and unexpected cultural messages. Please provide a valid email address. Some inspirations are overt, such as a bomber jacket that resembles a Haitian coffee-bean sack and a coordinating fringed miniskirt. Stella Jean exploded onto the fashion scene as one of the emerging designers to know from Milan Fashion Week in 2014. All rights reserved. She said she has been working against the mentality of a certain part of the Italian fashion world.. Your design patterns, color scheme, specifically, are a natural for interior design. At the end of our interview, she casually mentions that shes heading on a trip as a U.N. Stella Jeans revolutionary 2021 Fall Collection was preceded by her equally as revolutionary 2021 Spring Collection which set the tone for a year filled with diversity and multicultural representation. America elects their next President and Vice President. In order: Images courtesy of Stella Jean, The Week is part of Future plc, an international media group and leading digital publisher. Being rejected twice at the Who Is On Next? contest had a motivation, I was doing something totally wrong. I feel like we should have seen this coming. This weak point has becomeboth a strength and a fresh start. Stella Jean was born in Rome thirty-six years ago and still lives there. And here was the final click. Im very superstitious and I prefer the facta, non verba philosophy.. Multiculturalism applied toethical fashion - so goes the mantra ofStella Jeans label, and theItalian fashion designers latest collaboration adds a painterly twist too. She began [playing] in her village, Karimabad. With her playful approach and hard-to-miss design aesthetic that screams summer fever, hers is definitely one of the brands that has captured the regions best-dressed womens attention. Stella reiterated that We Are Made in Italy aimed to counter the misconception that to be Italian and a representative of Made in Italy is to be white., Most notable about the We Are Made in Italy project was the inclusion of not only black models but women wearing hijabs in the collection Abaya Businesswoman - Spring Summer 2022, proudly promoted on Stella Jeans Instagram page. "As the first and only Black designer in the history of the Fashion Council, it is my responsibility to explain to those who haven't noticed the extreme marginalization in which my minority lives," she told the Thomson Reuters Foundation. But on the other two questions, as I told you before, Im very superstitious and I prefer not to reveal anything about future projects. Ad Choices. Congratulations! Earlier this year, she released a film showing Italian women of Black and Asian origin revealing the racist comments they confront on a regular basis. To contact The Business of Fashion with comments, questions or speaker ideas please e-mail podcast@businessoffashion.com. When I see it, I can immediately hear the music that goes with it. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Cond Nast. As for whats next for Jean, she is making a return to the Italian Fashion Chamber. She said, The patterns are not mine; I dont own them. Every day, receive Savoir Flair's top articles straight to your computer or smartphone. Nichelle Cole: Stella Jean as a brand is covered in beauty and innovation and glamour and I suspect that as a designer there is an interesting origins story to Stella Jean as a designer. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement and Your California Privacy Rights. The code has been copied to your clipboard. Jean is the only Black member of the Italian National Fashion Chamber, a non-profit group that supports Italian fashion. The capsules prices range from $49.95 to $209.95, whereas a dress from Jeans namesake label costs somewhere in the upper three figures. Colleen Barry reported this story for The Associated Press. Its representative of Haiti to me. But the power of the flounces goes deeper. Theres still so much to learn and discover. Haitian-Italian Designer Stella Jean Combats Racism and Promotes Sustainability in Fashion. Nichelle Cole: At Salone del Mobile you revealed a capsule collection for interior design. Her fall 2021 collection featured embroidery work by Kyrgyz women, whom she met through a U.N. initiative. Armitage - due to kick off a solo show at Londons Royal Academy next March -is a figurative painter who uses soft and dreamy forms of abstraction to challenge colonial assumptions about East Africa and to bring into focus both the positive and negative aspects of modern Kenyan society. She credits the group with a lot of goodwill in cooperating with five young designers. The Italian fashion group is continuing its efforts by collaborating with five new designers from Italys minority communities during fashion week in September. Change). Stella then entered Vogue Italias Who Is On Next in 2011 where she won second place after having her applications be denied two years in a row. For the boldest of the bold, there are two accessories in the capsule that really capture your eye: a sandal with a red fringe ankle strap and a rounded top hat in peach. I am very superstitious! While brands rushed to post black squares on social media, Jean urged leaders to first address the lack of diversity within their corporate structures. She is even on the Forbes 30 Under 30 list! Then last month she launched an appeal for reform in the Italian fashion industry under the slogan, "Do Black Lives Matter in Italy?". Stella Jean has plenty on her plate. Goodwill Ambassador, though she cant disclose the location. In this specific moment, they speak to a regained space, she says. Watch and listen to more #BoFLIVE conversations here. In the latest episode of The BoF Podcast, Jean sat down with BoF Founder and Editor-in-Chief Imran Amed to share her personal history growing up the daughter of a Haitian mother and Italian father, discuss the systemic racism within Italys fashion sector and focus on fostering change. All rights reserved. Reporting on Sustainable Fashion, Design & living since 2012. Her decision to use her mothers maiden name for her brand in place of her surname Novarino was done to represent her Caribbean heritage. She now coaches girls and trains mothers in Karimabad, where she founded the Chitral Womens Handicraft Centre, which produced embroidery for one of [my] collections. Indeed the 26-piece collection brings together a mishmash of references that could only be culled from personal experience. 2016 Savoir Flair. Steele said Black designers are also under-represented in the United States although Black culture has done a lot for the fashion industry. My path into the industry was quite unorthodox and unconventional. Its not her first trip with the United Nationsshes traveled to Uzbekistan, Benin, Burkina Faso, and other countries to meet female artisans. Change), You are commenting using your Facebook account. Prepare your tissues. Yet another reason to be a fan of Stella Jean. Stella, in contrast, ensures that her designs are created in a way that shields BIPOC communities in developing countries from exploitation and evades environmental degradation. Despite many challenges, she persisted and has become a national womens football champion. We just have to accompany them, and then let them go find their own path. A runway show calls for the impetus of many minds and an equal number of wills. How could I choose just one? [Op-Ed | Fashion Is Part of the Race Problem], [Op-Ed | Inclusivity Demands More Than a Show]. Example: myname@email.com. Fashion gives me ample space to maneuver and find a place where both of these cultures cancoexist. 2022 Unstoppable Yes You, LLC. They always say it happens all of a sudden would you agree? Italian fashion houses have been criticised in recent years for creating products deemed racist, including Gucci's 2019 "Blackface" sweater with a mouth cut out and trimmed in red, and Prada's 2018 keychain of a monkey with inflated lips. Karishma Ali and I travelled up and down the Hindu Kush mountains, crossing thousands of kilometres, exchanging traditional meals and exchanding stories. Alongside the launch of her Spring 2021 Collection was We Are Made in Italy, a Milan Fashion Week Showcase that celebrated the work of five Black designers. (LogOut/ They reclaim our right to exist.. For the understated, theres a sophisticated black midi-dress. The Italian-Haitian designer and the only Black member of Italys Camera della Moda speaks to BoFs Editor-in-Chief about racism within the countrys fashion industry. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Change), You are commenting using your Twitter account. Stella Jeans revolutionary 2021 Fall Collection is a testament to Stellas doctrine. I prefer to talk about something that Ive already doneFacta, non verba! Visit our corporate site www.futureplc.com Future Publishing Limited, Quay House, The Ambury, Bath BA1 1UA. Simone Cipriani (the UN official in charge of the ITC Ethical Fashion Project) gave me the chance to discover a treasure trove of unparalleled craftsmanship. I combined these two elements together and I finally started on the right path with my Wax & Stripes philosohpy in which the African wax textiles refer to the Haitian roots of my mother and the masculine stripes to my Italian father. With immediate effect, the result may appear an African tribal style, but in fact, the lines of Art Deco period of 80s are what most characterize the collection. We want to rebuild a healthy fashion industry by safeguarding our cultural heritage and the historical memory of our artisans, with whom we started and through whom each mission enriches our multicultural families. Sometimes, its muchbetterto use another print rather than a plain color to dilute the overall effect of the look., Fashion is my most authentic communication medium through which I have been able to express and resolve the sense of inadequacy that has guided me through the first years of my life. To find out more, I spoke to Jean about this special knitwear project and her various experiences as a leader in sustainable and ethical luxury fashion. Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of fashion bible Vogue, apologized in June for "hurtful and intolerant" mistakes by the magazine, which she said had "not found enough ways to elevate and give space to Black editors, writers, photographers, designers and other creators". I think this is a healthy, participatory way to look at globalization.. SIGNS OF PROGRESS. The wearable works of art are intended to convey a message of inclusion, sustainability and equality, starting with a generous show of financialsupport: all sale proceeds will go to the Nairobi Contemporary Arts Institute - a non-profit exhibition space for East African artists - and Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo, to support rising stars in the art world. Its a bit of an exclusive concept. A Black-Italian Designer Aims to Change Italys Fashion Industry. "Allow black kids to be part of your organization charts," she said. It was the right place to be, but the wrong way to be there. Edward Buchanan and Michelle Ngomo are two Black fashion designers working in Milan. (AP Photo/Luca Bruno), Designer Stella Jean at the end of her women's fashion collection show, presented in Milan, Italy, Sunday, September 24, 2017. The use of multiculturalism for aesthetics easily treads the line of cultural appropriation. [The emboideries were presented at the tenth instalment of Jeans Laboratorio delle Nazioni, or Laboratory of Nations, project, an ongoing scheme supported by the United Nations that promotes the work of skilled artisans from low-income countries around the world.]. Jean said that while discrimination had been an "uncomfortable and punctual travel companion" in her life, she only encountered it in the fashion industry recently, when she raised questions of race. "[Brands] have long preached multiculturalism but have rarely applied such concepts beyond the media window [and] in the spaces away from the spotlight where no one is watching," she said. The inspiration comes from family tradition: wax fabrics of upholsteries are connected to my Caribbean maternal heritage, and at the same time they are evoking the Italian paternal style, expressed in the masculine stripes of mens shirts. Last week Italy's Foreign Minister Luigi Di Maio drew criticism for sharing "Blackface" memes of himself on his Facebook page, a response to a wave of earlier memes that surfaced when he appeared in public with a deep sun tan. Its magic and energy. When you want to do something, you can do them immediately, said Jean. In an industry with a long-standing history of racial exclusivism and harsh environmental impact, Stella Jean has dared to challenge the status quo. The work of women from the Northeastern part of Kyrgyzstan, in particular, caught Stellas interest. A first step is better than no steps at all. She said many of Jeans ideas could be copied in the United States and other places. The capsule comprises five looks which consist of bird, flower, and mountain embroideries, trapeze shapes, and Shyrdak motifs. extremely silly or unreasonable. A perfect harmony such as when the elements in an orchestra synchronize. I hope it will be something joyful but also really emotional, she says. Nichelle Cole: Can you tell us about your experience with the Victoria and Albert exhibition in London. The naked dress: feminist fashion or novelty nude apron? collaborate v. So I decided to make something more real, unique, and what is unique about me is my own personal story, my roots. The Haitian-Italian designer doesnt shy away from talking about important subjects, but she leads with joy in her clothing. Too often ethical fashion transforms into an unacceptable and inhumane marketing strategy which [feeds into a damaging] saviour mentality - defined as the paradoxical exploitation of the weakest and most vulnerable. Photo: Courtesy of Desigual x Stella Jean. (AP Photo/Andrew Medichini), Designer Stella Jean joins the band Soul Voices at the end of her fashion show in Milan, Italy, Sunday, September 24, 2017. More than that, Stella has enabled the Topchu designers to retain their Kyrgyz identity without restriction, which includes using the same embroidery patterns used in Stellas collection for their own profit.

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