A commonly used water-soluble surfactant and emulsifier. It's in many plants, e.g. Best to avoid if your skin is sensitive. A derivative of Urea, that works as astrong moisturizer and humectantmeaning that it helps the skin to cling onto waterand thus tomake it hydrated and elastic. Its a common fragrance ingredient that smells like lemon and has a bittersweet taste. In addition, the extent to which it can prevent muscles from contracting (and to smooth wrinkles) is very different (otherwise why would anyone use still Botox?). Plantscription Retinol Night Moisturizer With Alpine Flower. A form of vitamin E that works as an antioxidant. A plant extract that comes from wheat germ. Limonene's nr1 function is definitely being a fragrance component, but there are several studies showing that it's also a penetration enhancer, mainly for oil-loving components. A supercommon fragrance ingredient found naturally in many plants including citrus peel oils, rosemary or lavender. It isexcellent for acne-prone skin and safe to use even if you have fungi-related skin issues, likeseborrhea or fungal acne. A silicone fluid that gives anonoily, easy to spread emolliencyto the formulas. A super common, waxy, white, solid stuff that helps water and oil to mix together, gives body to creams and leaves the skin feeling soft and smooth. Still, if you have sensitive skin and prefer fragrance-free products, bergamot oil is not for you. They help reduce the speed with which our skin loses It also forms a protective barrier on the skin and fills in fine lines. Other tasks include helping the product to absorb faster and deeper into the skin (penetration enhancer), making the product spread nicely over the skin (slip agent), and attracting water (humectant) into the skin. It is usually used as a helper ingredient to adjust the pH of the formula. Might be somewhat helpful in attracting water to the upper layer of the skin, Two steps removed from the active form of vitamin A - retinoic acid. According to famous dermatologist, Leslie Baumann while tocopheryl acetate is more stable and has a longer shelf life, its also more poorly absorbed by the skin and may not have the same awesome photoprotective effects as pure Vit E. A type of sugar that haswater-bindingproperties and helps to keep your skinhydrated. acetyl hexapeptide-8. Used as skin- and hair conditioner and skin protectant. A fatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). Vitamin A - the most proven anti-aging ingredient available OTC that can smooth wrinkles and make skin firmer. Urea makes up about 7% of NMFs next to other things such as amino acids (40%), PCA (12%) or Lactate (12%). A very common water-loving surfactant and emulsifier that helps to keep water and oil mixed nicelytogether. Inhaled volatile compounds seemto have a soothing effect on the central nervous system and studies have shown that lavender aromatherapy canimprove patient's anxiety and experience in hospitals. It is a so-called polyunsaturated fatty acid meaning it has more than one (in this case two) double bonds and a somewhat kinky structure that makes LA and LA-rich oils a thin liquid.It is also an essential fatty acid meaning our body cannot synthesize. Skin often appears softer and brighter after exfoliation, but overdoing it can result in disrupted skin barrier. Apart from smelling nice (and thus being a popular natural fragrance alternative),Mandarin Orange Oil also has significant antioxidant properties that's comparable to synthetic antioxidant BHT or oil-soluble antioxidant big shot vitamin E. On the con side, the fragrant components of citrus peels might irritate sensitive skin and citrus peels also containthe problematic compound called furanocoumarin that makes them (mildly) phototoxic. Lavender oil is also often claimed to have anti-inflammatory properties. Though its long name does not reveal it, this polymer molecule (big molecule from repeated subunits or monomers) is a relative to the super common, water-loving thickener, Carbomer. It's a good skin moisturizer and can also help to reduce irritation. An emollient and natural moisturizer that can be found also in the sebum (oily stuff our skin produces). To make things even worse, lavender oil seems to be cytotoxic from concentrations as low as 0.25% (concentration up to 0.125% wereok). As far as skincare goes, sodium hyaluronate and hyaluronic acid are pretty much the same and the two names are used interchangeably. Texture enhancer for oil-in-water emulsions, One of the best moisturizing ingredients. It might be irritating, Plant extract that might have moisturizing properties. Might help to attract water to the upper layer of the skin, Helps attract water to the upper layer of the skin and improves the product texture. Often used to help stabilise other ingredients or the formula itself, Naturally present in skin and helps to attract water to its upper layer, Increases thickness of a product. So this one is the famous peptidethat's marketed by its manufacturer as the "Botox in a jar". Though conventional wisdom and anecdotal evidence says that this property is helpful for dark under-eye circles and puffy eyes, we have to mention that the double-blind research we have found about a 3% caffeine gel concluded that "the overall efficacy of the selected caffeine gel in reducing puffy eyes was not significantly different from that of its gel base." Once in the skin, it has nice antioxidant properties, meaning that it reduces the formation of evil free radicals and it mighteven be useful in preventing UV-induced skin cancers. Also, works well to fill in fine lines and wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it'snice). There is no known anti-aging or positive skin benefits of the ingredient. (We also checkedProspector for sodium hyaluronate versions actually used in cosmetic products and found that the most common molecular weight was 1.5-1.8 million Da that absolutely counts as high molecular weight). Lemon peel contains a medium amountof them, more than sweet orangebut less than bergamot. Can enhance penetration of other ingredients, A silicone that helps to reduce water loss from the surface of the skin. It's readily biodegradable. Once converted to the retinoic acid in the skin, retinol is proven to be effective against all signs of aging. Comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. Identification and Quantification of Oxidation Products and Effect on Skin Sensitization, Ethnopharmacological Properties and Medicinal Uses of Litsea cubeba, Annex I: Clinical evidence regarding sensitisation to individual fragrance chemicals and to natural extracts, Preventive and Therapeutic Role of Functional Ingredients of Barley Grass for Chronic Diseases in Human Beings, Biological Evaluation of Four Selected African Medicinal Plants for Their Trypanocidal Properties, Mode of action, and Chemical Compounds, Bacteriostatic and Bactericidal effects of ethyl acetate root bark extract of Terminalia avicennioides on Methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, Effect of green Coffea arabica L. seed oil on extracellular matrix components and water-channel expression in in vitro and ex vivo human skin models, Marine Bioactive Compounds and Their Health Benefits: A Review, Antioxidant Capacity and Lipophilic Content of Seaweeds Collected from the Qingdao Coastline, Hyaluronic acid: A key molecule in skin aging, Hyaluronan (Hyaluronic Acid): a natural moisturizer for skin care. A sugar that attracts water to the upper layer of the skin, Pure form of vitamin E. Can help moisturise and protect the skin from free radicals. It also helps to thicken up products and give them a bit more slip. In general algae extracts serve as moisturizing, emollient and thickening agents, and many of them also have additional anti-aging properties. It can be helpful to prevent blemishes and clogged pores, Plant extract that helps the skin to attract water and make it more smooth for touch. It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule and has different molecular weight and thus different viscosity versions from water-light to thickliquid. BTW, its also a food additive. Being a mild keratolytic agent and strong moisturizermeans that high-percentage (10-40%) urea treatments are found effective in a bunch of skin disorders connected to excessive dryness and malfunctioning skin barrier such as ichthyosis, xerosis, psoriasis,eczema and seborrheic dermatitis. The famousomega-6 fatty acid,the mother of all-6 fatty acids in ourbody. It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. The essential oil coming from the rind of the orange (thesweetone). It also has some localpain relieving and muscle relaxing magical powers. Depending on your hair type, it can bea bit difficult to wash out and might cause some build-up (btw, this is not true to all silicones, only the non-volatile types). So, Algae Extract can be anything from La Mer's "Miracle Broth" to a simple brownalgaeextract that helps to smooth the hair. This ingredient (ingredients) might help reduce hyperpigmentation, but the effect, if any, is likely to be small. Derived from coconut and glycerin, One of the best moisturizing ingredients. Argireline - famous peptide that's often referred to as "Botox in a jar". ", "See youthful suppleness & more even looking skin tone. A common helper ingredient that stabilizes emulsions and helps to thicken up products. Thats why a product containing linalool that has been opened for several months is more likely to be allergenic than a fresh one. LA deficiency leads to an impairedmore permeable skin barrier and the topical application of LA-rich sunflower oil can fix this issue rapidly (while oleic-rich olive oil did not have the same barrier repairing effect). It's acommon top notein perfumes and contains (among others)fragrant compoundslimonene (37%),linalyl acetate (30%) and linalool (8.8%). The unsaturated (with double bonds) and hence less stable version ofSqualane is Squalene, youcan read about it here >>. In-vivo (made on real people) tests showed that using 10% Argireline solution around the eyes for 15 days decreased wrinkles depth by 17%. The manufacturer did several studies to prove thatArgireline really works and it does (just not as well as Botox). It's a popular duo. The following ingredients in this product are especially good for supporting the skin barrier and helping with Yes, its soap. Its kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. So the good things: thanks to its wonderful scent the high-end perfume industry loves rose oil. An oil naturally present in skin. A vegetable origin emollient that has a similar consistency to lard (solid at room temperature) but melts rapidly upon contact with the skin. Overall, we think that caffeine is a very versatile and biologically activeingredient. We do a Best of INCIDecoder email once a month with the most interesting products and ingredients we bump into. As with all fragrance ingredients, citronellol can also cause allergic contact dermatitis and should be avoided if you have perfume allergy. But you know, the proof is in the pudding. It is a small, water-loving molecule with pretty good skin penetration abilties. The well-known stimulant from coffee. It attracts water to the upper layer of the skin working as a humectant, Help soften the upper layer of the skin and create a nice product consistency, A type of silicone that can decrease loss of moisture from the skin surface. wrinkles or fully reverse signs of aging. Join the WIMJ community to get skincare help and use personalized The unfancy name for it is lye. At the same time, it also boosts the effectiveness of other preservatives, such as the nowadays super commonly used phenoxyethanol. The essential oil coming from the rind of the orange. LA is not only important for dry, barrier damaged skin types but also for acne-prone skin. A super common fragrance ingredient that can be found among others in lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot or jasmine. Orange mandarin peel contains less from it than some other citruses (likebergamotor lime), but still, be carefulwith it especially if it's in a product for daytime use. Used alone, it can make the formula sticky and it is a good team player so it is usually combined with other thickeners and so-calledrheology modifiers (helper ingredients that adjust the flow and thus the feel of the formula). It works over a wide pH range and is used between 0.5-1.2%. Might help moisturize and protect the skin from free radicals, but mostly used in low concentrations to stabilize other ingredients. The famousomega-6 fatty acid,the mother of all-6 fatty acids in ourbody. In other words, it helps break down the bonds between dead cells on the surface of the skin and speed up the skin turnover. It helps create a nice product texture, Is proven to be effective in reducing blemishes, evening out skin tone and helping to improve lines and wrinkles. It is typically used in tiny amounts, around 0.1% or less. Be carefulwith it especially if it is in a product for daytime use. But here again, the evidence that it actually makes a measurable, let alone visible, improvement on actualhuman beings is limited (we could find only some animal skin studies or caffeine being combined with other actives). The thing in the pee that is also a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) with mild keratolytic and strong skin moisturizing superpowers. The first type is called humectants: these ingredients help attract water. There are also scar treatment gels out there using dimethicone as their base ingredient. Allows the product to spread evenly. A so-calledfatty (the good, non-drying kind of)alcohol that does all kinds of things in a skincare product: it makes your skin feel smooth and nice (emollient), helps to thicken up products and also helps water and oil to blend (emulsifier). This one is the so-called esterified version. A white to beige powder that is the goldenstandard emulsifier for emulsions (oil+water mixtures) that are difficult to stabilize. Here is a brown algae extract (the most common type, about 59% of macroalgae), also just called Algae Extract on the product label that is simply claimed to be a free radical scavenger, aka antioxidant. Used as skin- and hair conditioner and skin protectant. As for cosmetics, the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) concluded that the amount of BHT used in cosmetic products is low (usually around 0.01-0.1%), it does notpenetrate skin far enough to be absorbed into the bloodstream and it is safeto use in cosmetics. A well-known thing about Caffeine isthat it improves the microcirculation of the blood vessels. Oxidizedlimonene cancause allergic contact dermatitis and counts asa frequent skin sensitizer. This was the year when using dried lavender flowers in pillows, wardrobes, and elsewhere became fashionable in Japan, so it seems that increased exposure to lavenderresults in increased risk of sensitivity. It's not a new ingredient, it has been used both as a food and cosmetics additive since the 1970s. is drying. There is another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae (much more common, about 40% of total macroalgae worldwide) and is claimed to have not only moisturizing but also skin smoothing and densifying effects. This means that our molecule is part water- and part oil-loving, so it not only works as a thickener but also as an emulsion stabilizer. Like most essential oils, it contains antioxidant and antimicrobial components, but the main ones are fragrant constituents (like citronellol and geraniol). In general, there are two problems with citrus peel oils: first, they are essentially the fragrant component, limonene in disguise (they are about 85-98% limonene). Overall, it makes us sad to write bad things about such a lovely plant, but when it comes to skincare, you will be better off without lavender. The essential oil coming from the rind of the lemon that we make (or should make) lemonade from. Attracts water to the upper layer of the skin. Its part of 200 natural oils including lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot, jasmine, geranium and it can be found in 90-95% of prestige perfumes on the market. And in the skin. olive), and in the sebum (the oily stuff our skin produces) of the human skin. Its an ingredient whose safety hasnt been questioned so far by anyone (at least not that we know about). Out of the 95 compounds, the major ones are citronellol and geraniol,fragrant components that might irritate sensitive skin. Like most essential oils, it contains antioxidant and antimicrobial components, but the main ones are fragrant constituents. We don't have description for this ingredient yet. The essential oil coming from the peel of the mandarin orange or tangor. An AHA that comes from citrus fruits. It might also be useful for acne-prone skin as it normalizes keratinization. This product can help reduce and prevent fine lines and wrinkles, improve skin elasticity and firmness because It can be naturally found in geranium oil (about 30%) or rose oil (about 25%). Its often used together with ethylhexylglycerin as it nicely improves the preservative activity of phenoxyethanol. A fatty alcohol (the non-drying type) that is used to increase the viscosity of the formula and stabilize emulsions. Even though some of its effects are more hyped up than backed up, it is still a nice tohave on many ingredient lists. Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. Its one of the EU 26 fragrances that has to be labelled separately (and cannot be simply included in the term fragrance/perfume on the label) because of allergen potential. We have found some recent and promising research to back this up. Also serves as an emollient, Helps preserve products and creates a nice product texture, Helps oil and water mix togehter and creates a nice product texture, An emollient that softens the skin and forms a protective layer on its surface. effective ingredients: All in all, limonene has some pros and cons, but - especially if your skin is sensitive -the cons probably outweigh the pros. Helps soften the skin, restore its barrier function, and can help to calm down inflammation. Helps water and oil mix together, Maintains the texture of skincare products. It is especially popular in sunscreens as it can boost SPF protection and increase the water-resistance of the formula. A white to beige powder that is described as the goldenstandard emulsifier for emulsions (oil+water mixtures) that are difficult to stabilize. This product can help improve hydration of the skin with the two types of ingredients. It's a commonsynthetic antioxidant that's used as a preservative.There is some controversy around BHT. Plenty of studies tried to examine if it's a carcinogen or not. A multi-functional skincare superstar that has clinically proven anti-aging, skin lightening, anti-inflammatory and barrier repair properties. It lightens hyperpigmentation (aka UVB caused sun spots) both byblocking the melanin production ofmelanocytes (the skin cells that make the pigment melanin) and by enhancingthe desquamation of melanin pigment from the upper layers of the skin. Can be irritating. Also has a positive effect on the skin barrier beyond the humectant action. A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. caprylic/capric triglyceride, dimethicone. Can temporarily "fill in" lines and wrinkles, absorb oil, and create a nice product finish, A non-drying alcohol that works to soften the skin and stabilize product formulations helping oil and water mix together, Used to create a nice product texture and help delivery of other ingredients. Its approved by Ecocert and also used in the food industry(E415). It is a so-called polyunsaturated fatty acid meaning it has more than one (in this case two) double bonds and a somewhat kinky structure that makes LA and LA-rich oils a thin liquid. This is not hard at all as plenty of nuts (such as flax, poppy or sesame seeds) and vegetable oils (such as sunflower or safflower) are rich in LA. It comes from coconut oil and glycerin, its light-textured, clear, odorless and non-greasy. We have also browsed through Prospector to see what manufacturers sayabout their algae. Is an exfoliating ingredient when used in high concentrations, Non-drying alcohol that helps water and oil mix together. Great natural moisturizer and skin-identical ingredient that plays an important role in skin hydration and general skin health. less tight and nicer to the touch. Contains fragrant components that might irritate sensitive skin. There is some controversy around BHT. (The main components of the flower essential oil are linalyl acetate and linalool [around 80% the two together] while it is 1,8-Cineole [around 65%] in the essential oil of the leaves.). A biocompatible copolymer (a big molecule that consists of more than one type of building blocks) that has the same structure as important cell membrane ingredient, phospholipid. Also, we (humans :)) love rose oil. A vegetable origin emollient that has a similar consistency to lard (solid at room temperature) but melts rapidly upon contact with the skin. Pure Vitamin C. A skincare superstar that is clinically proven to boost collagen production (in 5-20% concentration), fade hyperpigmentation and boost UV protection under sunscreen. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning its the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. This product also contains ingredients called occlusives. A study made in the UK with 483 people tested the allergic reaction to 3% oxidised linalool and 2.3% had positive test results. A handy white powder that magically converts a liquid into a nice gel formula. Overall, linoleic acid is a multi-functional skin goodiewith barrier repairing, acne-reducing, and skin-lightening magic abilities. A derivative of Urea, that works as astrong moisturizer and humectantmeaning that it helps the skin to cling onto waterand thus tomake it hydrated and elastic. It does complywith the INCI standard (the official list about how ingredients on the product labels have to be called, the thing we help you to decodehere :)), but there are about20 000 different kinds of algae and an extract from them can be made in another 10 000 ways. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 8893. Chemically speaking, it is the attachment of a glycerin molecule to the fatty acid calledstearic acid. Before we list out the good and the not so good, here isan interesting thing.
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