It's quite the multi-tasker: an emollient and water-binding ingredient but also an emulsifier and can be used for stabilization purposes. All in all, limonene has some pros and cons, but - especially if your skin is sensitive -the cons probably outweigh the pros. A multi-functional, silky feeling helper ingredient that can do quite many things. Even though some of its effects are more hyped up than backed up, it is still a nice tohave on many ingredient lists. These isoflavones are also the ones that make soy aphytoestrogen, meaning they have a (weak) estrogenic effect. Just like other similar fragrance ingredients (like linalool and limonene) geraniol also oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. It's a super commonly used water-thin volatile silicone that gives skin and hair a silky, smooth feel. It's also often used to create liposomes. Plenty of studies tried to examine if it's a carcinogen or not. Though conventional wisdom and anecdotal evidence says that this property is helpful for dark under-eye circles and puffy eyes, we have to mention that the double-blind research we have found about a 3% caffeine gel concluded that "the overall efficacy of the selected caffeine gel in reducing puffy eyes was not significantly different from that of its gel base." Normal (well kind of - it's purified and deionized) water. A multi-functional, silky feeling helper ingredient that can do quite many things. Best to avoid if you have sensitive skin. You can usually find it right in the very first spot of the ingredient list, meaning its the biggest thing out of all the stuff that makes up the product. It's a petroleum derived emollient and thickener. :) It has water-binding properties, which means that it helps to keep your skin nice and hydrated. The manufacturer claims that it gives the skin a marked lifting effect, moisturizes, makes the skin softand smooth, enhances brightness, and helps make-up to stay on after application. Sugar - as a skincare ingredient it has water-binding properties, which means that it helps to keep your skin nice and hydrated. To do that it has to break down to its active form, sorbic acid. It's probably the most hyped up natural butter in skincare today. In reality, it's nowhere near that powerful, but it can smooth wrinkles to some extent by preventing facial muscles from contracting. In spite of this, if you search for "hyaluronic acid vs sodium hyaluronate" you will find on multiple places that sodium hyaluronate is smaller and can penetrate the skin better. A type of sugar that haswater-bindingproperties and helps to keep your skinhydrated. This increases Glyceryl Stearate's affinity for water and gives it stronger emulsifying abilities. On the skin, it is water-binding properties and helps to keep your skin hydrated. The famous Vaseline orPetroleum Jelly. As for smearing zinc gluconate all over your face, it is also not a bad idea. Its a great pick for creating a nice feeling product. On the skin, it haswater-binding properties and helps to keep your skin hydrated. Oxidizedlimonene cancause allergic contact dermatitis and counts asa frequent skin sensitizer. Another thing Caffeine is used for in body care products is its anti-cellulite effects. The downside of it is that it oxidises on air exposure and might become allergenic. The difference between "normal"Glyceryl Stearateand this guy is that the SE grade contains a small amount of water-loving soap molecules, such assodiumstearate. Usually the main solvent in cosmetic products. If you are fighting acne and have looked into oral supplements, chances are that zinc gluconate sounds familiar to you. Overall, soybean extract is a promising and multi-functional active, a nice addition to most ingredient lists. The official descriptionin the Europiean Cosmetic Ingredientlisting is this: "an extract of various species of Algae; Extract of the Seaweed, Fucus vesiculosus, Furaceae". The essential oil created by steam distilling the leaves of theEucalyptus tree. It's a great ingredient to neutralize metal (especially iron and copper) ions in a cosmetic product. According to famous dermatologist, Leslie Baumann while tocopheryl acetate is more stable and has a longer shelf life, its also more poorly absorbed by the skin and may not have the same awesome photoprotective effects as pure Vit E. Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is a stable, oil-soluble form of skincare big shot Vitamin C. If you do not know, why Vitamin C is such a big deal in skincare, click here and read all about it. While the occlusivity of mineral oil is in the same league as the occlusivity of plant oils, petrolatum is in a league of its own. Its the - sodium form - cousin of the famous NMF,hyaluronic acid(HA). Currently, algae extracts are mostly used asmoisturizing andthickening agents, but algae also have great potential to combat skin aging, pigmentation as well asworking as an antimicrobial. A super common emollient that makes your skin feel nice and smooth. It also has a long history of safe use, as it was first used as a skincare product more than 100 years ago, in 1872to be precise. It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. Can be derived from coconut or palm kernel oil. These were just three random examples from three manufacturers all called Algae extract even though they all come from different algae with different claims. Argireline - famous peptide that's often referred to as "Botox in a jar". In addition, the extent to which it can prevent muscles from contracting (and to smooth wrinkles) is very different (otherwise why would anyone use still Botox?). It's the salt form of famous humectant and natural moisturizing factor, hyaluronic acid. This is useful for most pigmentation situationsbut, if you have melasma, soy is not for youas melasma isestrogen-mediated and soy is a well-knownphytoestrogen. Citronellol is a very common fragrance ingredient with a nice rose-like odor. Unless the brand tells you what they use, it's impossible to know for sure. The problem with linalool is, that just like limoneneit oxidises on air exposure and becomes allergenic. A silicone fluid that gives anonoily, easy to spread emolliencyto the formulas. A petroleum-derived emollient and thickener. Other than that its a nice emollient that gives a smooth and soft appearance to the skin. One more thing: the water used in cosmetics is purified and deionized (it means that almost all of the mineral ions inside it is removed). So we will skip right to the part where we talk about what the hell it does in so-so many cosmetic products. Thismeans that copper has some tan activating properties, though we think you should not be into tanningat all, as UV is so bad for the skin. But it's not only a simple emollient, it regenerates and soothes the skin,protects it from external factors (such as UV rays or wind) and is also rich in antioxidants (among others vitamin A, E, F, quercetin and epigallocatechin gallate). To solve this problem they came up with vitamin C derivatives, and one of them is Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (let's call it ATIP in short). It's not a new ingredient, it has been used both as a food and cosmetics additive since the 1970s. Its kind of everywhere - both in plants and in cosmetic products. It can bind huge amounts of water and it's pretty much the current IT-moisturizer. The gluconate part is there to promote the bioavailability of copper and it alsoplays a role in cellular regeneration (involved in the synthesis of ribose sugars, structural components of DNA and RNA). Shea butter that's considered to be a magic moisturizer and emollient. It smells like rose and can be found in rose oil or in small quantities in geranium, lemon and many other essential oils. It is also non-comedogenic, though its pure form is very heavy and greasy so combination and oily skin typesmight want to avoid it anyway. It goes by the trade name "Phytodermina Lifting" that refers to two things: it's a "lifting" ingredient and it comes from plant raw materials. Thanks. Super common little helper ingredient thathelps products to remain nice and stable for a longer time. Apart from being an important skin-identical ingredient, it's also an emollient and stabilizer. Its not something new: it was introduced around 1950 and today it can be used up to 1% worldwide. A real oldie but a goodie. There is another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae (much more common, about 40% of total macroalgae worldwide) and is claimed to have not only moisturizing but also skin smoothing and densifying effects. Its main active components are antioxidant phenolic acids and flavonoidsas well as small and large soy proteins. The thing in the pee that is also a natural moisturizing factor (NMF) with mild keratolytic and strong skin moisturizing superpowers. Like this, the products can stay more stable over time. This comes in handy healing cracked lips or severely dry skin patches, though overdoing it (i.e. It works mainly in the final healing phase that complements nicely with the wound healing abilitiesof its mineral salt sister, zinc gluconate. Butylene glycol, or lets just call it BG, is a multi-tasking colorless, syrupy liquid. It often comes to the formula as part of an emulsifier, thickener trio (with Polyacrylamide and Laureth-7). If you are looking for one, this could be your thing. The study was a small (10 patients), double-blind experiment,and the formula did show some measurable anti-aging results. BTW, its also a food preservativeand even has an E number, E202. It works synergistically with preservatives and helps to improvewater-resistance of sunscreens. stays on the skin)dimethicone as the two together forma water-resistant, breathable protective barrier on the skin without a negative tacky feel. And it's natural, both Ecocert and Cosmos approved. As for petrolatum and safety, we can write here pretty much the exact same thing as we have written at mineral oil. An extract that comes from one or more of the 20 000 kinds of algae out there. This means,Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 does have some ability to smooth wrinkles (but not as well as Botox - sorry, if we sound like a broken record). Genistein is also proven to inhibit UV induced redness in human skin. It helps to soften scars and increase their elasticity. Exactly what it sounds: nice smelling stuff put into cosmetic products so that the end product also smells nice. The most famous and bioactive flavonoids in soybeans are the isoflavones called genistein anddiadzeinthat have potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. It can be found in nature - in green tea - but the version used in cosmetics is synthetic. But here again, the evidence that it actually makes a measurable, let alone visible, improvement on actualhuman beings is limited (we could find only some animal skin studies or caffeine being combined with other actives). With thiscontext in mind let's see whatATIP might be able to do. As a super well-known stimulant from coffee, tea and plenty of other soft drinks,Caffeine needs no introduction. Not bad! BGs main job is usually to be a solvent for the other ingredients. When you hear the word Soy, you probably associate it with soy sauce or tofu, not skincare. But as it turns out, the soybean has a bunch of useful active components and soybean extract is an interesting cosmetic ingredient with a wide range of possible effects. A biocompatible copolymer (a big molecule that consists of more than one type of building blocks) that has the same structure as important cell membrane ingredient, phospholipid. is drying. Also, if your skin is sensitive, fragrance is again not your best friend. A very common silicone that gives both skin and hair a silky smooth feel. We have also browsed through Prospector to see what manufacturers sayabout their algae. Its the most commonly used version of pure vitamin E in cosmetics. reduce wrinkles, smooth skin) but without the side effects (though it seems now that the INCI name of Lanablue was changed to Aphanizomenon Flos-Aquae Extract). Form of Vitamin C, Ascorbyl Isotetrapalmitate, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, ATIP, Sodium Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid;Sodium PCA. This helpsto prevent discoloration of the formula over time or rancidity of cosmetic oils. This trio is an easy-to-use liquid that helps to create nice, non-tacky gel formulas. Its one of the EU 26 fragrances that has to be labelled separately (and cannot be simply included in the term fragrance/perfume on the label) because of allergen potential. A common fragrance ingredient that has a sweet scent somewhere between lily and fruity melon. A well-known thing about Caffeine isthat it improves the microcirculation of the blood vessels. Other than that, copper is also involved in several enzyme systems: it is a cofactor for the antioxidant enzyme,superoxide dismutaseand also a cofactor for the melanin stimulating enzyme, tyrosinase. A stable, oil-soluble form of Vitamin C, that might have (in-vitro results) all the magic abilities of pure vitamin C (antioxidant, collagen booster, skin brightener). It also imparts gloss, softness and better manageability to hair. It is a polymer (created from repeating subunits) molecule and has different molecular weight and thus different viscosity versions from water-light to thickliquid. Good old water, aka H2O. As for cosmetics, the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) concluded that the amount of BHT used in cosmetic products is low (usually around 0.01-0.1%), it does notpenetrate skin far enough to be absorbed into the bloodstream and it is safeto use in cosmetics. A copper salt (copper cation + gluconate anion)probably best known for promoting cellular regeneration and wound healing. It is a small, water-loving molecule with pretty good skin penetration abilties. The sodium salt form of PCA is an important skin-identical ingredient and great natural moisturizer that helps the skin to hold onto water and stay nicely hydrated. A fragrance with a sweet scent somewhere between lily and fruity melon. This trio is an easy-to-use liquid that helps to create nice, non-tacky gel formulas. It's a good skin moisturizer, leaves a silky, smooth feel on the skin and can help to reduce irritation caused by some not-so-nice ingredients (like surfactants). This helpsto prevent discoloration of the formula over time or rancidity of cosmetic oils. It's a great ingredient to neutralize metal (especially iron and copper) ions in a cosmetic product. The theory is that it can inhibitthe activity of the 5--reductase enzyme that plays an important role in hair lossand allows a renewed growth phase of the hair. And in the skin. If you see potassium sorbate you should see some other preservative next to it too. It is thereto promotethe absorption and bioavailabilityof zinc and also plays a role incellular regeneration (involved in the synthesis of ribose sugars, structural components of DNA and RNA). It also stimulatesantioxidant enzyme systems (mainly superoxide dismutase) and has nice wound healing abilitiesacting mainly in the first,proliferation phase. In cosmetics, it can be used up to 1%. Emollient plant oil coming from the seeds ofSesame. A super common fragrance ingredient that can be found among others in lavender, ylang-ylang, bergamot or jasmine. Thats why a product containing linalool that has been opened for several months is more likely to be allergenic than a fresh one. Here is a brown algae extract (the most common type, about 59% of macroalgae), also just called Algae Extract on the product label that is simply claimed to be a free radical scavenger, aka antioxidant. Its official functions include being a humectant (helps skin to attract water), emollient (makes skin feel smooth and nice) and skin conditioner(a catchall phrase for saying it does something good for the skin). A super commonly used 5 unit long, cyclic structuredsilicone that is water-thin and does not stay on the skin but evaporates from it (called volatile silicone). It's one of the important lipids that can be found naturally in the outer layer of the skin. A supercommon and cheap fragrance ingredient. Third,ATIP seems to have all three magic abilitiesof pure vitamin C: it gives antioxidant protection from both UVB and UVA rays, it increases collagen synthesis (even more than AA) and it has askin brightening effect by reducing melanogenesis by more than 80% in human melanoma cell cultures. Overall, we think that caffeine is a very versatile and biologically activeingredient. It does complywith the INCI standard (the official list about how ingredients on the product labels have to be called, the thing we help you to decodehere :)), but there are about20 000 different kinds of algae and an extract from them can be made in another 10 000 ways. Please try again later! Other than having a good safety profile and being quite gentle to the skin it has some other advantages too. A 2017 study compared a 0.2% caffeine liquid with a 5%Minoxidil (an FDA approved active to treat baldness) solution and found that "a caffeine-based topical liquid should be considered as not inferior to minoxidil 5% solution in men with androgenetic alopecia", or English translation means that the caffeine liquid was pretty much as good as the FDA-approvedMinoxidil stuff. It can be used in many types of formulations as it has great thermal stability (can be heated up to 85C) and works on a wide range of pH levels (ph 3-10). It's used as anemulsion stabilizer, solvent, and a broad spectrum antimicrobial. According to its Korean manufacturer, it contains good-for-the-skin things like betaine, amino acids and minerals and the extract can strengthen the skin barrier, increase skin recovery and provide deep moisturization effect. The famous Vaseline orPetroleum Jelly. An emollient ester giving along-lasting lubricious skin feel. What seems to be a true difference, though, is that the salt form is more stable, easier to formulate andcheaper so it pops up more often on the ingredient lists. The well-known stimulant from coffee. Once inside the skin, it hydrates, but not from the outside - putting pure water on the skin (hello long baths!) Can be found in essential oils, such as lavenderoil, orange flower oil or ylang-ylang. Linalool is a super common fragrance ingredient. A goldish to dark yellow emollient plant oil coming from Sesame seeds. Its safe and gentle, but even more importantly, its not a feared-by-everyone-mostly-without-scientific-reason paraben. A silicone fluid that gives anonoily, easy to spread emolliencyto the formulas. Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) Leaf Oil, simple brownalgaeextract that helps to smooth the hair, another algae extract from another manufacturer that comes from red algae, Read all the geeky details about Glycerin here >>, You can read all about the pure form here, A natural moisturizer thats also in our skin, A super common, safe, effective and cheap molecule used for more than 50 years, Not only a simple moisturizer but knows much more: keeps the skin lipids between our skin cells in a healthy (liquid crystal) state, protects against irritation, helps to restore barrier, Effective from as low as 3% with even more benefits at higher concentrations up to 20-40% (around 10% is a good usability-effectiveness sweet spot), High-glycerin moisturizers are awesome for treating severely dry skin. It's the acronym for Butylated Hydroxy Toluene. It's one of those things that help your cosmetics not to go wrong too soon, aka a preservative. It's also often used to create liposomes. It is made up of 30 to 50 chemicals on average. Also, works well to fill in fine lines and wrinkles and give skin a plump look (of course that is only temporary, but still, it'snice). Just like mineral oil, it is also a by-product of refining crude oil, aka petroleum, and it is also a mixture ofhydrocarbons but with bigger (C18-90+) carbon chain length. There is also some promising, but as yet not in-vivo (done on real people), research that soybean extract can stimulate both elastin and collagen synthesis andthus lead tohealthier, younger-looking skin. What makes urea special, is that it is not only a simple moisturizer, but it is thought to be a "small-molecule regulator of epidermal structure and function" meaning that it has a bunch of extra biological activities. So great for skin typesin need of healing and soothing. A copper salt that is known to promote cellular regeneration and also has some antioxidant and tan-activating properties. There is no known anti-aging or positive skin benefits of the ingredient. As cosmetic chemist kindofstephenwrites on reddit "sodium hyaluronate disassociates into hyaluronic acid molecule and a sodium atom in solution". Overall, it is the gold-standard occlusive agent known today and a tub of Vaseline comes in handy in any household to heal cracked lips or other severely dry skin patches. The unique thing about petrolatum is that it is the most effective occlusive agent known today. This is called self-emulsifying and SE in its name stands for that. It is also cosmetically very elegant with a non-tacky, non-oily and smooth skin feel. Second, because it's oil-soluble, its skin penetration abilities seem to be great.
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