This would probably have been the wrong page for my question save that someone has mentioned spats. Declining interest in recreational tobacco smoking, which accelerated in the 1990s, also contributed to the decline of the smoking jacket. Feel free to contribute! Im still waiting for one on how to wear spats :-). After dinner, a gentleman might put on a smoking jacket and retreat to a smoking room. It should be stressed that a robe-de-chambre was not and is not a smoking jacket, although it could serve a similar function. You should take the nature of the event and stated dress codes into consideration when deciding whether to wear a smoking jacket and which style to wear. [1], While smoking jackets declined in popularity from the 1950s, a minority of wearers still persisted; Playboy mogul Hugh Hefner (19262017) was a notable example. As international trade and colonial expansion exploded in the 1600s, exotic goods and riches poured from the Americas, Africa, and Asia into Europe, fueling a boom for luxury goods and attire. Therefore, many would avoid exposing prized garments such as overcoats, hats, and tunics to smoke. However, while a sash-style smoking jacket can be more voluminous, a buttoned smoking jacket should still be fitted, so consider having alterations done by your tailor. Smoking jackets have fallen in and out of favor over the past few centuries. Button closures would sometimes replace sashes or frogs, for added formality, and the jacket was often cut closer to the body. If desired, it is perfectly acceptable to wear a pocket square in the exterior chest pocket, provided that the pocket square is suited to the anticipated level of formality and matches the rest of the outfit. Tassels and other decorative elements may also be present on the belt. That being said, it should be noted that many of these colors were also seen in 19th-century smoking jackets, illustrating the cyclical nature of fashion. The article covered the storied history of the smoking jacket and touched upon its utility as a practical item for dedicated smokers, touting its value in the present day. As a young man, Albert Edward often engaged in social smoking and could commonly be seen at Sandringham House, his abode in Norfolk, England, in a smoking jacket. I agree to this GG's terms of service and code of conduct. See the following question for more information. It is likely that many other entertainers who wore smoking jackets while performing did so to cultivate a similar sense of intimacy. Smoking jackets arent exactly commonplace nowadays. Cigar Aficionado published a piece on the return of the smoking jacket. Originating in the 1850s, The Gentleman's Magazine of London, England, defined the smoking jacket as a "kind of short robe de chambre [i.e. Cent. For instance, because the smoking jacket was not intended primarily for warmth, its skirt shrank from full length to mid-thigh. Not sure how it would go in the 21st century. Cut in the style of a smoking jacket, this garment was single-breasted with a shawl collar and lapels faced in silk, that was, according to the original ledgers of Poole and Company, of blue silk, likely midnight blue. The existing Gentlemans Gazette catalog offers numerous resources for second-hand shopping, but below are some points to consider when seeking out a smoking jacket in particular. Be mindful also that smoking jackets with a longer skirt may have been worn as a robe, and as such, it is best to have any item thoroughly cleaned before wearing. Like a robe-de-chambre, many smoking jackets of the Victorian Era would have been closed with a sash, although large toggle buttons, like the aforementioned olives, were also common. Read More. To help you get started, here are a few brands worth considering: A new smoking jacket can represent a sizable investment, as indicated in the following table. The Derek Rose smoking jacket (no relation to the NBA star) combined the classic design with an even more relaxed feel. Hundreds of years ago, men didnt enjoy the extensive wardrobes they do today. Gentlemans Magazine of London put out the earliest description of what a classic smoking jacket would look like, saying it was a kind of short robe de chambre, of velvet, cashmere, plush, merino or printed flannel, lined with bright colours, ornamented with brandenbourgs, olives or large buttons.. Accordingly, burgundy smoking jackets, in particular, became closely associated with Hefner and were commonly employed to represent him in parodies or at costume parties. Odors may also be an issue and should be taken into consideration, especially as dormant odors can be revived as a jacket is worn again. For something more sedate, cloth-covered buttons are also an excellent choice. Many regions, primarily in Continental Europe, refer to dinner jacket ensembles, or tuxedoes, as Smoking because the modern dinner jacket evolved from the smoking jacket. As one might discern from the name of the involved New York country club, these escapades at Tuxedo Park are often considered the birth of the tuxedo, or dinner jacket, and are an important aspect of the development of modern Black Tie. Image via Wikipedia. With their sash closures, smoking jackets from LuxuRobes, a subsidiary of Duke and Digham, were clearly designed with domestic settings in mind. Tasteful decoration, usually on the exterior chest pocket, is in keeping with classic conventions, but as always, be aware of the effect of exaggerated designs, and in general, we recommend avoiding any designs that incorporate brand logos. Smoking jackets may not be as common as they were in the 19th or early 20th centuries, but they are enjoying a comeback and are becoming more popular in contemporary menswear. 15 Mar 2018 Last Updated: 9 Apr 2020. Turn-up cuffs, in which the end of the sleeve has been turned up and out at the hand hole with facings, often in satin, are perhaps the most iconic cuffs for smoking jackets. [2], WHO Framework Convention on Tobacco Control, Protocol to Eliminate Illicit Trade in Tobacco Products, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Smoking_jacket&oldid=1094564250, Short description is different from Wikidata, Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike License 3.0, This page was last edited on 23 June 2022, at 11:18. [4] As it was comfortable, it could also be worn by men as a leisure garment unconnected with smoking. Copyright 2022 Holt's Cigar Company. Starting to get into Cosplay with this one. According to popular tradition, he and his wife, Cora, enjoyed a private supper with Albert Edward during a trip to England because the Crown Prince was smitten with Cora. To feel better, to brag, to express oneself? The right century I was referring to is indeed the XIX . With offerings available at under $1000, Derek Rose provides expertly crafted smoking jackets that more closely resemble leisure robes, and as such are best reserved for domestic occasions. Albert Edward reserved this new jacket for private dinners, still preferring a tailcoat for more formal occasions. As mentioned above, whether you wear a smoking jacket or not at most invitational celebrations or events should be dictated by the stated dress code. As such, these smoking jackets, which average over $3000 in cost, are designed primarily for public use and are cut very similarly to a dinner jacket, often with trendy detailing. Dress codes like Black Tie Optional, Festive Formal, or Creative Black Tie are more clear invitations to wear a smoking jacket. Many homes even featured designated smoking rooms. Just exchange your jacket and enjoy yourself. Where did it come from and how did it evolve throughout the years? Your suit jacket size will be a solid approximation for the best fit for a smoking jacket. Whats the Difference Between Bourbon and Whiskey? But as youll learn in this guide, the smoking jacket is not a bygone relic of a rarefied age, nor is it the exclusive domain of smokers. Their version did away with the frogging and the flair. Why are socks treated differently from spats, please? The smoke could also inundate the clothing, especially coats, shirts, and neckwear, leaving behind a strong, musty odor. Conversely, a bespoke smoking jacket may require a sizable outlay of initial capital, but it will often result in a garment of superlative quality. 
Noted English diarist Samuel Pepys commissioned a portrait of himself in a robe-de-chambre, referring to it as an Indian gown in his diary, although it was so expensive that he could not afford one for himself, and instead rented it. 
Having brought the smoking jacket up to the present, we will now summarize the styles and features of the contemporary smoking jacket. Smoking presented a number of threats to ones clothing. A tuxedo, or dinner jacket ensemble, is the modern iteration of traditional Black Tie formal wear. Smoking jackets range greatly in quality and price. This trim is evocative of the exposed cuffs and lapel, and when done tastefully, is in keeping with a traditional smoking jacket style. But this new trend had serious implications for the wardrobes of those who participated. Inspired by the nightcap, which had been intended originally to retain heat and protect ones bedsheets from stains, smoking caps, sometimes called lounging caps, were meant to prevent ones hair from absorbing the odors of tobacco smoke. Fred Astaire is buried in his favorite smoking jacket. Therefore, unless your social circle tends to favor wearing smoking jackets, they might be best avoided at weddings to avoid any awkward confusion. This style is most often associated with sash-closure smoking jackets but will also appear on buttoned varieties. If you desire to add a little glamor to your evenings in, a smoking jacket could be the perfect touch. Single-breasted smoking jackets were the most common in the 20th century. The function of the smoking jacket would remain largely static in Victorian society until undergoing another evolution, courtesy of Albert Edward, Prince of Wales, and future King Edward VII. One such article can be considered, in some respects, the spiritual precursor to the smoking jacket. Is a smoking jacket the same thing as a tuxedo? The answer to that questions will tell you if you should wear the socks or not. He commissioned Henry Poole & Co. (Savile Row) to craft him a blue silk one that he would often wear to meals. While smoking had been around for centuries before, it was during the Crimean War in the 1850s that Turkish tobacco experienced a boom in popularity in England. You can wear a sash smoking jacket when entertaining at your own home, but a buttoned style is better suited for private evenings at a friends home. A classic pattern can be very fetching, but be aware that anything too complex could be distracting, especially in a public setting. One of the earliest mentions of this garment comes from Samuel Pepys, who desired to be depicted in his portrait in a silk gown but could not afford one, so he rented one: Thence home and eat one mouthful, and so to Hale's and there sat until almost quite dark upon working my gowne, which I hired to be drawn (in) itan Indian gown, and I do see all the reason to expect a most excellent picture of it. The smoking jacket continued to be worn, both as a domestic garment and a Black Tie alternative, into the 20th century. As the 20th century wore on, the smoking jacket declined in popularity due to a variety of converging factors. As a false friend, the name carried on to its derivation the dinner jacket in several non-English languages. A Smoking is in fact a tuxedo in Norway as well, so the mix-up seems to involve quite a few european countries. Evocative of bygone glitz and glamor, the smoking jacket can often be seen on film and music stars, especially at red carpet events like premieres or awards shows. Cent. Sir Noel Coward was an English playwright, composer, and musician known for his aristocratic charm and acerbic wit. Because of the risk of foul odors, and the likelihood that damaged areas may not be clearly evident in images, you should be careful when purchasing a used smoking jacket online. Similar to a dressing gown, it was worn over clothes (sans frock coat) to stay warm during Victorian winters. Whether you don one in the comfort of your own home while enjoying a fine cigar or while spending a night out on the town, you can be sure that youll attract attention and add one more story to the legacy of a garment that has seen everything from the stately halls of Sandringham House to the glittering gaming floors of the Sands Casino. When in doubt, for any event with a formal air, a dinner jacket will be the safer option. On the other end, youll find all kinds of smoking jackets for under $100 that would make for nice Hugh Hefner costume. Thank you very much for this most informative guide. Frogging refers to braiding that can decorate the buttons or toggles of a smoking jacket. Buttoned smoking jackets more closely resemble dinner jackets and tend to be more structured and tailored in fit. He owns over 200 different smoking jackets/pajama tops that are custom-made for him. cigars, a pipe, or cigarettes). Portrait of Samuel Pepys (1666) by John Halys. Should I wear a smoking jacket while smoking? Toggled smoking jackets are a variation on the button closure style. No longer just for smoking rooms, Edward would wear the jacket to meals and parties, which ushered in a new line of formal loungewear fashion. Brandenbourgs refers to a type of braid detailing associated with the city of the same name, while olives are oblong wooden buttons covered in fabric that somewhat resemble olives. Feel free to wear either a sash or buttoned smoking jacket. 
Timely article, thank you. Since the smoking jacket is considerable shorter than the ankle length Banyan, you can imagine that the smoking jacket gave the owner more freedom of movement. Because of its domestic nature, smoking jackets were historically often decorated with the initials or family crest of the owner. Monograms can be displayed, but for the most traditional styling, they should be restricted to the interior lining; in the past, monograms were intended only for the benefit of ones launderer and were not prominently displayed. That would make them and me uncomfortable. An important initial consideration will be whether to purchase off-the-rack or made to measure, for which you will want to take advantage of our numerous resources on that subject. Avoid synthetics and seek out natural fabrics, like cotton velvet and genuine silk. Smoking jackets can be made from nearly any fabric, but an important consideration will be the desired use of the jacket. As fine silks began coming into Europe from India, China, and the Americas, it became increasingly popular for the wealthy to want to be depicted in paintings wearing a silk robe de chambre or banyan. The jacket was intended to absorb the smoke from his cigar or pipe and protect his clothing from falling ash. It is for this reason that in some countries, especially the European Continent, a dinner jacket, or tuxedo, can somewhat confusingly be referred to as a Smoking, in recognition of the jackets origins. Bombas has donated more than 50 million items to more than 3,500 community organizations to date all thanks to supporters like you. This ushered in a new wave of acceptance for the piece of loungewear as a sort of comfortable yet formal article of clothing. 
Colors like mustard, brown, gray, purple, and bright shades of blue and red have become more popular for smoking jackets since the 2000s and as such present a slightly more au-currant appearance. Before long, it was the norm for those who wanted to show off their prestige via depictions in paintings by wearing these new silk robe de chambres longer, leisurely garments that resembled dressing gowns or pajama robes. Obligingly, Albert Edward put Potter in contact with Poole and Company. Because of its origins, the smoking jacket is not ideally suited for all public occasions. The dinner jacket sounds like a good idea and I will start looking for one soon. A smoking jacket is a garment, similar to a robe or a long blazer, that you wear over your clothing while you smoke. The robes acted as a protective barrier between the ash and smoke and their expensive evening clothes and afforded an additional opportunity to display one more garment from ones collection. Cannot imagine wearing it outside the home to an event or a dinner or, well, anything. James Brown Potter was a wealthy American banker and financier. Smoking jackets can vary in length from breaking at the knee to breaking similarly to a suit jacket. In general, because of its bulky fabric, a smoking jacket should be cut more generously than a dinner jacket. Smoking jackets have been around for centuries. In the public psyche, smoking jackets remained associated with social elites, and in addition to the magnates and millionaires of the time, celebrities, especially singers and film stars, were foremost in that cadre. They were often made from thick or plush fabrics, like velvet, and were highly decorated, often with tassels. Read More, As long as you prep your manly palace with a handful of vital accoutrements, enjoying cigars wont be a problem at all as a matter of fact, your cave may end up being so. An informal association of entertainers, The Rat Pack, led primarily by Frank Sinatra, Dean Martin, and Sammy Davis, Jr., regularly sported smoking jackets while performing or partying in Las Vegas casinos or Los Angeles penthouses. To provide a convivial atmosphere, many weddings, even Black Tie weddings, invite creative dress from guests. With a brandy in one hand and a cigar or pipe in the other, the smoking jacket became a means to absorb the smokes aroma while protecting their clothing from falling ash. When you buy something using the affiliate links on our site, we may earn a small commission. gentlemen preferred to be portraited in such an outfit, because it gave them an air of a scholar. Dark solid colors, usually reds, blues, greens, and black, were common because of their versatility. Image via Wikimedia. There are essentially two varieties of contemporary smoking jackets that vary in their styling and the occasions for which they are appropriate. Authentic jackets are traditionally made from high-end materials like cashmere and silk. Connected to the smoking jacket is the Victorian house coat as seen in many films, particularly Sherlock Holmes. Accordingly, while changing their clothes throughout the day or getting into their pajamas at night, gentlemen of the time would often wrap themselves in a robe for much-needed warmth.Often referred to as a dressing gown or robe-de-chambre, from the French word for bedroom garment, this article provided ample opportunity for showcasing ones wealth; many were crafted from expensive fabrics like plush wool, cotton satin, velvet, or silk. Potentially yes, but pay attention to the precise dress code. When investing in a smoking jacket, select a model that fits your needs and the occasions on which you intend to wear it, taking into consideration the suggestions made in the above How to Wear a Smoking Jacket section. In fact, we believe that the smoking jacket could be an excellent fit for any gentlemans at-home attire, and in some circumstances, it can even serve as a Black Tie alternative. In fact,The Gentlemans Magazineof London printed the earliest description of the jackets silken evolution as a shorterrobe de chambre, consisting of plush fabrics such as velvet, cashmere, satin, or printed flannel. Hefs go-to smoking jacket was made of burgundy silk with black velvet lapels a more relaxed robe for the bedroom or lounging poolside. The Rat Pack and others ushered in a new wave of popularity that would last for a couple of decades. Lets follow their journey in more detail. By the 20th century, the popularity of the smoking jacket had reached new heights Hollywood heights. Otherwise, a wider variety of fabrics can be employed for jackets that are styled like a smoking jacket but will not be worn primarily when smoking. It can be very difficult to distinguish between these jacket types, and many of the distinctions were codified during the mid-20th century and are no longer observed. marlboro Remember, though, youll likely be wearing other clothing under your smoking jacket, so youll want to factor that into your fit. In doing so, Coward conveyed to his audience a sense of intimate camaraderie, as though they were guests in his residence as he performed. To distinguish your smoking jacket from a velvet dinner jacket, consider toggle frog closures for a unique and visually striking effect. frogs], olives or large buttons."[1]. An editorial in The Washington Post in 1902 gave the opinion that the smoking jacket was "synonymous with comfort",[3] while a Pennsylvania newspaper opined in 1908 that it would be "putting it mildly to say that a new House Coat or Smoking Jacket will give any man reason for elation". Oftentimes, these examples will be more fashion-forward, but they do illustrate the publics continued fascination with smoking jackets on famous men. Lacking central heating and modern insulation, the palatial homes of Europe were often chilly. Most often, these jackets are classified by their closure method. It was common for men at this time to not only wear a smoking jacket, but also a smoking cap. In the 17th century, goods began flowing into Europe from Asia and the Americas, bringing in spices, tobacco, coffee, and silks. And although they arent making a chic comeback, that doesnt mean that the smoking jacket doesnt have an illustrious history worth noting. Comment * document.getElementById("comment").setAttribute( "id", "a04db9b52810e1e41ace953cfcd85e8f" );document.getElementById("b4b925cb6b").setAttribute( "id", "comment" ); Display a Gravatar image next to my comments. Why Did Men Stop Wearing Ties (Long Neckties)? It could instead be worn as an elegant housecoat or, under the right conditions, as a Black Tie alternative. These new, shorter robes were lined with vibrant colors and patterns, had a shawl collar, brocade toggles (called frogging) or a cord tied as a belt to keep the front closed. Easier access to modish Turkish cigars following the conclusion of the Crimean War in 1856 cemented the popularity of smoking, and the smoking jacket was a ubiquitous sight in menswear. Because of their former extreme popularity, smoking jackets can often be found at very reasonable prices secondhand. Ive always liked Poirots smoking jacket. The smoking jacket had its name after its associated tobacco activity. These smoking jackets cost over 1000 but come in a variety of colors with quality materials. Aww, how thoughtful! Conversely, a more conventional shawl collar can often be found on button closure smoking jackets. The smoking jacket evolved out of the dinner jacket, essentially as a dress coat without tails, following an example set by the Prince of Wales (later King Edward VII) in 1865. So, the next time you light up, think about all those that suited up before you -- and maybe consider igniting a movement to bring back the iconic flair of the smoking jacket and making it mainstream, no? In the 18th century, gentlemen often referred to a specific style of "night gown" called the banyan, a knee-length robe, a more comfortable in design than the justaucorps, onto which shawl collars became recurrent. But when he took things from his boudoir to the boardroom, Hefner favored a black velvet smoking jacket, claiming I always wear black during the day black is serious, for taking care of business..
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